Jessica's Berlin Recs 🇩🇪

Periodically adding to this (updated: 13 Nov 2024)

So you’ve decided to come to Berlin. Great choice! Here are some recs from what I’ve gathered from living here, and maybe you’ll get a glimpse as to why I decided to move here.

Getting here and around 🚗🚲🚃

You’re probably flying into BER (Berlin Brandenburg). Depending on the time of day, passport control can take anywhere from 0-30 minutes depending on how many windows are staffed. International flights will leave you in Terminal 1, most EU flights will leave you in Terminal 2. Baggage claim can be long too sometimes (especially with budget airlines and staffing shortages). If you’re arriving with heavier luggage, be prepared with some change for the luggage carts as there are no change machines. They accept American quarters, EU 0.50 coins, and others similarly sized.

Legitimate taxi drivers will never approach you in the terminal. All rideshares and taxis pick up out on the curb directly outside of baggage claim.

BVG (public transportation) and other modes of transportation

Download the BVG app so you can buy your ticket on the train. The regional trains and S-Bahn are downstairs in Terminal 1 and it’s about a 40 minute ride to Berlin proper, and by car it takes 45 mins to an hour depending on traffic. The airport lies in Zone C, so you’ll have to buy a 1-way AC ticket. Depending on your length of stay, it may make sense to get a several day AB pass (most of where you will go will only be in Zones A and B). Ticket controllers do patrol and ask for valid tickets so don’t try to skip out on fares (the fine is 60 Euro). If you’d prefer the old school way, there are ticket machines at the stations. For either digital or paper tickets, it is your responsibility to make sure they are validated. The great thing about Berlin is that public transportation runs 24 hours a day, just a little less frequent during off-peak hours.

• If you are staying more than a week or plan to travel to a neighboring country from Berlin via train, it may make sense to get the Deutschlandticket which costs 49 Euros and includes all local transportation around the entirety of Germany except the private trains (IC, ICE, etc). This can be purchased here.

  • I specifically recommend Mopla for the Deutschlandticket because they have more flexible cancellation/pausing terms and also accept credit cards. Buy it for the month you need, then immediately cancel for the next month so you don’t have to worry about it.

  • Hamburg’s public transit app will allow you to purchase the Deutschlandticket at a prorated rate BUT you must cancel before the 10th of the following month to avoid being charged for the next month. Paypal, credit, or debit cards are accepted.

• Bikes can go on all trains and trams but cannot go on busses. You must purchase a bike ticket for your bike.

• If you are here for awhile, Swapfiets offers longer monthly bike rentals. Dance offers monthly e-bike rentals. There are plentiful bike shops around Berlin and many offer bike rentals as well.

• I find Apple Maps to give better transit directions than Google Maps, however Google Maps is more current on delays. Delays can be checked via the BVG app.

On-demand rides

• Bolt can be significantly cheaper here than Uber. If they find you using it pretty often, they kick you discounts. Bolt also offers scooter and e-bike rentals with an unlock fee and per minute charge. For e-scooters, I believe you’ll have to take a quiz before you can access them. Get 5 Euros off your first two rides.

• Lime also offers e-bike and e-scooter rentals. It’s most cost effective to get a flat-rate minute pass at 60, 100, and 220 minutes (10, 17, and 37 Euros respectively). The coverage area is pretty wide. The e-scooter speeds aren’t super fast but you’ll be cruising. The e-bikes can get up to 28mph but the brakes aren’t the best. Luckily, Berlin is relatively flat. Save 3 Euros here.

• FreeNow offers on-demand rides, scooters, e-bikes, and carsharing (with EU license). They source from different carriers so they will have the most availability for scooters, e-bikes, etc. Get 7 Euros off your first ride with code fhqr0p8mv.

I am primarily a bike commuter, so it’s my main mode of transportation. There are many segregated bike paths along/within sidewalks, so be sure to stay out of the bike lane as a pedestrian (it will almost always be very obvious it’s a bike lane).

Currency conversion

Some 40% of businesses in Berlin are cash only, which is surprising given Europe’s adoption of contactless payment being relatively widespread. Be aware that ATMs (namely the yellow Euronet ones) will offer you their conversion rate which is not at all competitive with the current market rate (always decline their conversion), and will charge you €4,95 on top. Pull out cash at German bank ATMs (like Sparkasse, Deutche Bank, Deutsche Postbank) as your bank will offer you the current market rate of conversion.

Internet/Cell service

Internet here is behind by about several years and cell phone service can be spotty in some parts of the city. Most places will have fast enough internet for video calls but if you’re planning to do remote work for awhile here, be sure to ask about internet speeds.

Be aware that many cafes are laptop-free on the weekends, and I’d say it’s about 50/50 that they will have wifi available. All U-Bahn stations have wifi, some major S-Bahn stations do as well, in addition to a few street trams. You can check for wifi hotspots here.

Most cell phone carriers will have their own international plans but I would suggest looking into e-SIMs if your phone is unlocked and is recent enough. It’s oftentimes cheaper to get an e-SIM that will connect with the European affiliate network here once you activate it. Airalo and Holafly are two popular companies offering e-SIMs. If you prefer, you can pick up a physical SIM at a Vodafone or O2 shop but be sure to bring your passport. Many grocery stores and drug stores will also sell prepaid SIMs as well.

Neighborhoods 🏘️

Where should you stay? Well, it depends on what you want out of your trip. I’ll speak to the ones I have experience with:

• Schöneberg: South of Tiergarten and in West Berlin, this neighborhood is quiet and largely family-oriented. The area around Nollendorfplatz (historically Berlin’s LGBTQIA+ friendly district) is my favorite, as the surrounding areas have cool shops, bars, and restaurants. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, Winterfeldplatz is home to a large market of food stands, knickknacks, produce, flowers, etc.

• Prenzlauer Berg: You can’t throw a rock without hitting a cafe here. This area hosts lots of shops, cafes, and restaurants. I find it to be a little far from the city center but it’s still a nice area of town and accessible via the M6 and M10 trams. Zeiss Planetarium is here.

• Friedrichshain: This neighborhood is what I would categorize as more city-like and urban. It’s kinda noisy, the people could be a little friendlier, and it’s arguably where many tourists are concentrated during the weekend because of the clubs (Berghain is here). This area has the biggest club density, has Volkspark Friedrichshain, and Warschauer Straße is always poppin’, especially near the S-Bahn station with buskers. I live in this neighborhood.

• Neukölln: Berlin’s largest Middle Eastern population lives here. You can expect plentiful döner, Turkish grocery stores with the cheapest (and usually freshest) produce. Tempelhofer Feld is over here and was formerly an airfield but now exists as a large, multi-purpose park. The studio I teach at is near the canal at Wildenbruchplatz.

• Kreuzberg: If I could live here, I would. The area around Bergmannstraße is my favorite with shops, restaurants, cafes and feels pretty central to me. Viktoriapark has great views of Berlin if you’re willing to go towards the top, and Hasenheide Park is in this kiez as well. Kottbusser Tor (affectionately called Kotti) is a busy crux (well I guess it technically it’s a roundabout) of the city and can get a little seedy at night.

• Mitte: Means “middle” and is, well, in the middle of Berlin. I don’t find this area of Berlin to be too noteworthy outside of the areas near Alexanderplatz, Rosenthaler Platz, Torstraße, Museuminsel and Oranienburger Tor. Going north, you’ve got Humboldthain which is a nice park.

All of these neighborhoods have prominent U-Bahn and/or S-Bahn stations if not for access to street trams.

If you will be here awhile (more than a week), reach out to me! I can help you find a sublet as it’ll be cheaper than a hotel/hostel. Many people here travel and will offer cheap rent to cover their rent for the time they’re away, or look for pet/housesitters.

Places of interest 🗺️

A quick note about Sundays and holidays: Many establishments will be closed on Sundays like supermarkets, malls, local businesses but most restaurants, bars, Kinos will be open. Germany also has something around 30 holidays a year, so you can expect many businesses to be closed as well so plan accordingly.

Touristy things:

• Brandenburger Tor which is right near the Holocaust Memorial. While you’re here, you might as well stroll through Tiergarten Park.

• The Reichstag is where the German Bundestag meets. You must register ahead of time to get an allocated time slot to enter. The views at the top dome are cool, and sometimes you can look down and see when meetings are in session.

• East Side Gallery is a nice art walk full of murals from what remains of the Berlin Mauer. I would start from the Ostbahnhof end and walk towards Warschauer.

• Museuminsel is an island of several museums like the Pergamon (which will close for several years soon!), Neues Museum, and Altes Museum. The Nefertiti bust lives in the Neues Museum and has an extensive Egyptian collection.

• Mauerpark (go on Sundays) is normally a large park but on Sundays it hosts a flea market and a large karaoke session in the ampitheatre that’s there. It’s always a fun time.

• Checkpoint Charlie is the place where the border of East and West Berlin used to be. It’s a cool photo op but be sure to visit the surrounding open air museum to learn about the history of this area.

• Siegessäule: Berlin’s Victory Column that was built to commemorate all of Germany’s global victories (erhmmmm…) but contains some cool frescoes and detailed mosaics. If you’re willing to climb up several flights of stairs in a narrow, spiral staircase, you’ll get a 360 degree view of Berlin at the top (this costs 4 Euro, cash only). What’s cool about this monument is that it can only be accessed after going underground via tunnel which lies under the traffic circle that surrounds it.

• Walking tours: You can always look up free walking tours and give a cash tip at the end, but I’ve gone on two pay-what-you-want tours with Jonny Whitlam who knows a good deal about Berlin. You can find his next tours on his Instagram.

Clubs:

I’m still working my way into visiting all of them; these are the ones I’ve been to so far with the more performance venues like Astra and Gretchen left out.

• Berghain/Panorama Bar: Okay, it’s baerg-HEIN. Not ber-GAIN. The infamous club that has arbitrary rejection rates but one of the best sound systems I’ve experienced to date. This venue hosts two parties most weekends: Friday night to Saturday afternoon (Finest Friday, 14-20 Euro) and Saturday night to Monday afternoon (Klubnacht, 25 Euro no matter when, 5 Euro reentry fee with last entry before last DJ goes on). The schedule/timetables are published online closer to the event. Thursdays the smaller hall Säule is open during the summer, and live music is held at the Kantine on other nights. The Lab is a queer space that I’m too hetero to know much about.

• OXI: Grungy, dark, has areas for doing drugs (what else could they be for). Sound is okay, door selection seems lax as well. Some cool names come through here but it’s not my first choice. Not a super remarkable club.

• RSO: This place is far out there. It’s a pain to get to IMO but at least has a nearby S-Bahn station. This club has the 2nd best soundsystem in Berlin. Its outdoor component Baergarten is an outdoor spot that will host events during the summer.

• Tresor: After they had to say goodbye to their former location that was housed in a bank, they brought some old artifacts like safe deposit boxes and a vault door that you can spot inside the club. The Globus room hosts a Lambda soundsystem that is pretty good! Their door selection policy can be similar to Berghain so you can expect long queues depending on the night.

• :://about blank: I find the crowds here to lean on the younger side (like university students). I’ve only been here twice and I don’t find anything too remarkable about this venue other than their spacious Garten area as the rooms inside can get insufferably hot. They’re currently on the boycott list because of some activity with Anti-Deutsch folks.

• Watergate: I’ve only been here once and I don’t see a reason to go back. It’s incredibly tourist-oriented, the cover is expensive, and the sound is fine. The club has a nice view of the Spree and during warmer months, their patio on the river is open. This club is set to close after the 2024 year is over.

• Else: Large, spacious, open-air venue only open for the summer. Run and owned by the same folks who run Renate across the river. After 10pm the music moves into a smaller room inside. My favorite venue during the late spring and summer.

• Renate: Not too far from Else and About Blank, this club is a two-story venue with several rooms of music and several rooms to hang out and chill. They also have a large outdoor Garten as well. M01 is a sister club next door that is sometimes connected if there are large parties. They have a rule of no smoking indoors but it’s not heavily enforced.

• KitKat: A LGBTQIA+ friendly club that is definitely kink-oriented. I wouldn’t call it a sex club, but it’s very sex-positive and offers plenty of spaces to engage in sex if that’s something you want to do. The club also has a pool, although I’m unclear when that’s open. They have a mandatory coat check where men may be asked to take off their shirts, but everyone must check their phones in.

• Sage Beach: Owned an operated by the same people who run Watergate. This is a riverside venue that hosts a “beach” dancefloor (bring your sandals, it’s a pain to wear with shoes, or just take off your shoes). They have a whole operation with a restaurant and plenty of areas to hang out. The sound is not good here.

• Mensch Meier: Similar remarks to OXI. Closed as of Jan 2024.

• Anomalie: Next door to Mensch Meier. Cool archways to enter each room but this club can easily get overcrowded and oversold if there are special events like Boiler Room. Don’t have a reason to return here unless there is an artist I haven’t seen before.

• Prince Charles: This isn’t a club-club per se, but is an event space that promoters use to host parties at. I’ve been here twice and it’s a cool space with a repurposed indoor pool that’s now utilized as a dancefloor.

• Zur Klappe: The entrance to this club is in the middle of the street and the club is literally underground. Formerly a gay cruising toilet, this club is small but the vibes are big. I host my monthly b2b DJ event here on the 4th Thursday of the month.

• Alte Münze: Cool club space in a former mint building (Münze means “coin” in German). Large and spacious with plenty of seating and 3 rooms for music. Also hosts corporate events and parties and doesn’t have as much of the gritty Berlin club vibe as some others.

Find a full list of Berlin’s clubs here. Be prepared to cover up your phone’s cameras (it’s a nice change from the US where phones are out all the time). I would highly recommend bringing a compact, portable fan and a collapsing/foldable water bottle to save on trips to the bar (FYI, Berghain won’t allow you to bring your own bottle for whatever reason but every other club I’ve been to hasn’t had an issue).

Some clubs will charge pfand (bottle deposit) so just make sure to return them to get your deposit back.

Other places you should go:

• Templehofer Feld: Former airfield now massive public park. Rent a bike or scooter and travel around the perimeter. Or bring a kite and hang out with friends for a picnic.

• Monbijoupark: I love the edge of this park because it faces the river and has a little plaza where some swing/jazz dancers meet and have a time. There are two small open air bars here with some seating so it’s a great spot to hang out for the vibes.

• Dark Matter: Experimental and interactive art exhibit that also has a seasonal component outdoors. During the summer, they have Sommerlights with live music/DJs that accompany the installation. In the winter, they have Winterlights where a bunch of (presumably) Christmas trees are lit up and are timed according to specially composed music.

• Sammlung Boros: I recently went to this and loved it. The Boroses are art collectors who live in a WWII bunker that houses their massive collection. I was particularly impressed with the tour and the tour guide’s expansive knowledge. Book ahead early; slots fill up fast.

• Tiergarten: This massive park is so lovely. Several bikeable paths run through here, it’s lush, it’s green, it’s serene, and a great place to stroll around. One of my favorite places in Berlin.

If you have more time

• Teufelsberg: Just about an hour away from city centre lies one of the world’s largest street art galleries. It was a former spy hill used by the Americans and British in the 1960s. Explore abandoned buildings with art and murals, and see the Berlin skyline from afar. Entry is €8.

• Spreewald is about an hour away from via regional trail from Ostbahnhof. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site of a peaceful river ring nestled in a little forest town. I rented a canoe with 3 friends for about 3 hours and the cost was around 25 Euro for the entire time.

• Schloss Sanssouci is like the Versailles of Germany. Located in Potsdam, it’s easily accessible by train and not too far from Berlin.

Food 🍽️

In general, I find food in Berlin to be lackluster considering how international the population is. There is an abundance of döner, Vietnamese, and Thai food. Berlin seems to still be stuck in the 1990s with some places only accepting cash, so be prepared for that. I am vegetarian, so all of these places have at least something a vegetarian can eat.

I peruse Berlin Food Stories from time to time for recs as well.

Tipping is not compulsory but is a gesture of gratitude. Most people round up.

Breakfast/Brunch:

Annelies: Their breakfast sandwich is amongst one of the best I’ve ever had. Pancake buns with a fluffy egg patty? Say less. Their seasonal beet salad is incredible. Card only.

44Brekkie: Delicious egg drop sandwiches with fluffy eggs enveloped in chunky brioche slices. Can get quite busy for good reason on the weekends. Cash and card accepted.

Anytime:

Darfur Imbiss: Cheap and unassuming Sudanese fare where everything is under €9. Serves falafel, halloumi, fried tofu, chicken, and more but what’s really great are their peanut and mango sauces. Open late. Cash or Paypal only.

Cafe Eula: Siutated within Gleisdreieck Park, this spot is oozes of cute. Mismatched outdoor furniture, fun garden tschotchkes all around, and being able to enjoy drinks and snacks outdoors surrounded by plants and trees is quite something. Hanging nearby in the park after or visiting the Deutsches Technikmuseum would be a great call after.

Markthalle Neun: A massive hall hosting different food stands, vendors, wine bars, and a mini biergarten. Check their schedule as some days are specified for the weekend market or are themed. Seating can be hard to come by here. Varies by vendor, but cash and card accepted.

Bonanza Coffee: I am not a coffee drinker but this place has a very viscous, decadent hot chocolate that comes with a homemade marshmallow that is reminiscent of San Francisco’s Dandelion Chocolate. I come just for this! Cash and card accepted.

Winterfeldt Schokoladen: A cute neighborhood chocolate shop and cafe out in Schöneberg. They feature several different kinds of hot chocolate and chocolate-based drinks. They also serve pastries and coffee, amongst other drinks. Oh, don’t forget to browse all of the chocolate they offer, some of which is made in-house. Cash and card accepted.

Burgermeister: For a fast food joint, I find Burgermeister to have an excellent veggie burger (although Goldie’s has better fries) . They’ve got several locations around Berlin and are open late, which is hard to come by in some neighborhoods. Cash and card accepted.

Lunch/Dinner:

Capvin: My favorite pizza spot in Berlin. I am a Neapolitan girl and the dough is fluffy, toothsome, and salted just right. Pizzas are served with golden scissors that you use to cut your pie with! Card only.

Cafe Pilz: Israeli/Levantine eatery serving all-vegan fare that you don’t know is vegan. Expect straight-from-the-oven bread, delicious dips and spreads, hearty potatoes, seasonal roasted veggies, and a wide selection of drinks. Cash and card accepted.

Lon Men’s: A bit of a trek out in Charlottenburg but well worth it IMO. Comfort Chinese/Taiwanese food. This place always seems to have a wait. Cash only.

Da Jia Le: Okay, I am a bit biased towards my own cultural food but I love this place. Yummy Chinese food that’s reasonably priced. It’s out in Schöneberg so I don’t trek here unless I’m already going out towards West Berlin. Cash only.

Liu’s Nudelhaus: Szechuan noodle spot offering many dishes with chili oil. They also offer vegan versions of their dishes. Cash only but you can order online ahead of time to skip the line and that’s a workaround to pay by card. I personally would choose Liu’s over Wen Cheng that offers adjacent dishes featuring hand-pulled noodles. Cash only, but a workaround is to order online ahead of time to eat in to avoid queuing.

Li.ke Thai: A Thai spot where all the dishes are vegan but you can’t really tell. Reminds me of Farmhouse Thai Kitchen from San Francisco. They have small plates and larger plates that come with rice. Cash or card accepted.

Panda Meister: Cheap, quick Chinese food joint with several locations around the city. The one closest to me is in a food truck park near Ostbahnhof. Cash and card accepted.

Cookies Cream: Upscale vegetarian Michelin-star rated restaurant that was confusing to find. Located in the back of a building, you have to walk through a loading dock area to reach this restaurant. Reasonably priced prix-fixe menu of 4, 5, or 6 courses. Not gonna lie, the chive butter and bread was probably my favourite of everything I tasted. Cash and card accepted.

Sweets/Bakeries:

Atelier Dough: I think their photos speak for themselves. They open late (I think 12pm) for a doughnut shop but so it goes. Cash and card accepted.

La Maison: French patisserie that has a variety of pastries, soups, salads, and sandwiches amongst other desserts and drinks. I had a vegetarian sandwich here and 10/10, would eat again. Cash and card accepted.

Canal: Dainty eclairs, cinnamon knots, danishes, brioches, croissants, and other delectable pastries await. There are three locations relatively close to each other in Mitte, serving ice cream in the more temperate months. Cash and card accepted.

Jones’ Ice Cream: Probably the closest thing Berlin’s got to Salt and Straw but more tame. It’s the only place so far where I’ve been able to find black sesame ice cream. They have a location in Prenzlauer Berg near Mauerpark and another in Schöneberg. Cash and card accepted.

Shopping 🛍️

Berlin offers a lot of places to spend your money! Depending on what you’re looking for, certain areas can offer a greater selection.

Groceries

Grocery stores will be closed on Sundays! The only ones that will be open are at the main S-Bahn stations like Berlin Hauptbahnhof and Ostbahnhof.

• Edeka and Rewe are the mid-range grocery chains here. Not super cheap, but also not super expensive. Quality of produce can vary but most things that are carried are in season. They have locations all throughout Berlin so it won’t be difficult to find one.

• Penny, Lidl, Aldi, Netto are the lower-range grocery chains. What they carry is more affordable, the selection isn’t as great, and the quality of items varies.

• Wochen(ende)markts are weekly markets held around the city where farmers are able to sell their produce, and you can find other vendors selling jewelry, household goods, honey, wine, etc. I’ve found some pretty cheap and great produce (like 4 juicy nectarines for 1 Euro) at Maybachufer, but some produce, especially if it’s bio produce (organic) will obviously be more pricey.

• Drogeries vs. Apotheken: Grocery stores in general won’t carry vitamins, OTC medication and the like, but will have a very limited selection. Drogeries (drug stores) like DM or Rossmann will have a wider selection and you can find other things like contact solution. If you need something like ibuprofen or an antacid, you’ll have to visit the pharmacy (Apotheke) with the large green A signs.

Clothing

• Secondhand/thrifting: The Goodwill equivalent in Berlin is Humana, and they have several locations throughout the city. I’ve never been so I don’t know what the selection is like. Picknweight also has a few locations and items are sold by the kilo. I liken Picknweight to a Buffalo Exchange with a mix of new items, vintage, and secondhand pieces for sale.

• Everyday: Forgot to bring a jacket or need a simple bathing suit? There are several chain stores like H&M, Uniqlo, Bershka around the city. Check out East Side Mall in Friedrichshain, Mall of Berlin, Potsdamer Platz, and Alexa in Mitte, Neukölln Arcaden in Neukölln.

• Higher end: Luxury brands have their stores around Berlin, but many are concentrated around Ku’damm (Kurfürstendamm) where KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) or the area between Rosenthaler Platz and Rosa-Luxemberg-Platz. Carhartt Work in Progress is located in this area, as is lululemon, Adidas, Birkenstock, Aesop, etc.

Yoga 🧘🏻‍♀️🧘🏽‍♂️

I obviously have to spend a little time on this topic. Berlin’s studios are primarily geared towards a Jivamukti and Ashtanga crowd. Those practices are not my jam. That being said, there are _a lot_ of yoga studios in this city, so there are plenty of offerings to which you will find something to your liking. If you will be here awhile, I would suggest getting an Urban Sports Club membership that will give you access to a wide variety of studios around the city (USC is the EU equivalent of ClassPass). Many classes are offered in English.

I primarily teach at Yoga Futura in Kreuzkölln and Kreuzberg. Let me know if you ever want to drop in for class!

Finally…

In general, I feel incredibly safe walking around, even at night. Crime in general is low here, and judging by the dainty locks on some bikes, bike thefts don’t seem to be frequent here. If you lose something, chances are it’ll still be where you left it or will be turned into the police. Homelessness is nowhere near as chronic as it is in San Francisco, so many residents here are able to have their basic needs met.

Medical emergencies can happen. You will be asked for your insurance, but tell the person at intake that you are self-paying. Save all receipts and claim it against your home medical insurance or travel insurance. I happened to to roll my foot last summer here which resulted in a fractured 5th metarsal. I do not advise visiting any of the Vivantes locations for the ER, but do recommend Alexanier St. Hedwig Krankenhaus in Mitte.

For more ℹ️

Visit Berlin, Berlin’s official site for tourism.

My pal Craig compiled a Google Maps of his recs with some solid selections here.

Email me or message me with any other questions!

Hope this was helpful.

Tschüß,
Jessica